Full disclosure, I didn’t even know where Merida was, apparently. I had decided to visit Merida, sandwiched between two trips to Mexico City. So, when I kept remarking to a friend in CDMX that I am curious what the weather is like “up there” in Merida, and that “I’ve never been to the Baja Peninsula,” (the embarrassing list goes on and on) he finally asked me “where do you think you’re going?”

See my full Merida photo gallery

So apparently, Merida is in the Yucutan, which is literally, on the other side of Mexico. No matter, the flight (a short one from CDMX!) would get me wherever I booked a ticket.

This is what I was expecting from Merida (remember, I didn’t even know where it was!):

Quaint

Colonial

Quiet

Old-fashioned

Rustic

This is what I got with Merida:

Quaint - with a level of unmatched charm

Colonial

Quiet - but only during the day

And a city with more sophistication and class, rivaled only by San Miguel Allende, in my humble opinion, and THIS is what shocked me the most.

I stepped out of my stunning AirBNB (linking here, as you see in the photos, it’s stunning and Luis is a gem) and wasn’t really sure which direction to head - as my apartment was slightly off the beaten path (by a single street - but I didn’t know this yet.)

“What I found can only be described as if “Puerto Vallarta, San Juan (PR), and Oaxaca” all had a baby and called it Merida.””

Well, always head to the main square. So, I headed that direction. What I discovered on the way to the main square is where I truly discovered the true personality of this city. The main square, however, is really what you might expect from a somewhat-coastal tourist city. A large square, anchored by the beautiful Merida Cathedral, souvenir shops, touristy restaurants, benches (which, some are special, which we will see later), a fountain - if you’ve been to any town in Mexico, this should all feel familiar and comfortable.

I mean, it’s nice! It’s another beautiful Mexico main square. The square was under construction while I was visiting, so I didn’t get the entire vibe, but this obviously was not where the magic of Merida lived. I had to get out further. So I ventured, blindly, still not knowing what to expect from this baffling town.

What I found can only be described as if “Puerto Vallarta, San Juan (PR), and Oaxaca” all had a baby and called it Merida.

A laid-back coastal city vibe (while Mérida is NOT a coastal city, it’s less than an hour from the Atlantic/Gulf), mixed with the architecture and colors of obvious Caribbean influence, and the fascinating, spiritual, and sometimes shocking and brutal history of the Mayan culture.

*This wonderful family allowed me to take their photo during breakfast.*

Brightly painted restaurants, clubs, shops, and homes line the streets - the cleanest and most “tidy” boulevards I’ve ever seen in Mexico.

On the “main drag” - the mind-blowing, Paseo de Montejo lined with massive mansions once occupied by the most wealthy of Mexicans (Spaniards?) - is almost overwhelming with its imposing hotel lobbies, wide streets, and ornate architecture. It’s hard to image how this extreme showcase of wealth and influence would have been seen in past Mexico, or even current Mexico. It was beautiful - but shocking at the same time. Not everyone in Mexico has the opportunity live like this. Very few people in Mexico have the opportunity to live like this.

By now, I have no “bucket” to place this town. One street, filled with abandoned small homes - paint peeling, concrete crumbling, and some still occupied, leads you to another lined with the largest homes ever built in Mexico. Five-star restaurants lining up behind auto parts stores, shoulder to shoulder with newly built modern homes, and apartments.

And, it was all … just …. sooooo … clean. Not that any city I’ve visited in this country could be called “dirty,” - but this city was so clean, almost to a Disney fault.

*Just one of the many gorgeous boulevards of Merida*

Let’s do talk about the heat, however. According to an internet search, it really never falls below 85 degrees Fahrenheit. And it’s 40 minutes from the Atlantic, so expect that to feel much hotter. It was 90+ when I visited, and it was tough. Just be aware this is a tropical climate, and if heat is just not your thing (it’s not for me!) then this might not be the place for you anytime other than December.

Food

My initial concern was the food in Merida was going to be very Oaxacan - earthy, mole-driven, “stout” - but I found much more relaxed, bright flavors here. And plenty of variety. Lots of pork, turkey, and plenty of beef options - including, shockingly, a truly tasty brisket outside my home state of Texas!

I snagged a table for one at Micaela Mar & Leña - https://www.restaurantemicaela.com/ - and was treated with such care and attention, the service almost eclipsed the meal.

But the meal was outstanding. Drowned Duck Toast stole the appetizer show, although the Esquite with added chiccaron was also very tasty. The Shrimp with Bacon Rice (it’s really just a bacon-y risoto) was also good, but I wished I had chosen something a bit more region-specific and interesting.

The setting is both modern and traditional - really a truly beautiful place to have a meal.

Another dinner at Rosas y Xocolate Restaurant - https://www.rosasandxocolate.com/restaurant/ - once a crown jewel of Merida dining, with a well-known terrace looking out over the mansions of Zona Paseo Montejo, was, well, fine. Service was awesome, but I think there are better food options in this city if you venture off the mansion route.

A true surprise came from the recommendation of a Merida friend - Anima - https://www.animaelviento.mx - which calls itself a “Barbecue restaurant” - well, this Texan would be the judge of that.

While service was, well, awkward and uneven - the food was amazing.

The biggest surprise? A smoked brisket that could give Texas brisket a run for its money. Also, a really nice short rib.

The pork belly, however, was the star of this dark, smoky, sexy show. Don’t miss it.

Merida is NOT a street food city - well, at least not in the touristy areas - so you are bound to sit-down restaurants.

For dessert, skip the restaurant offerings and head over to Mansion Avenue for Dulceria y Sorbeteria Colon. Located at https://elcolon.mx, this incredibly popular sorbet shop has been serving Merida since 1907. It’s a massive place, and every time I’ve strolled by, it’s packed. I quickly realized why.

Unbelievably delicious sorbet is served in standard and unique flavors. I tried the strawberry, banana, and chocolate, and all were amazing.

You absolutely must try this sorbet on a hot, humid evening in Merida. And when you get home, you’ll find yourself dreaming about it.

This place has such a strong influence that I even bought a Ninja Creami because of it.

Finally, for breakfast, or just a midday cool-off, you would be insane to miss SoCol Merida - https://www.socomerida.com - a lovely shop with two locations in Merida, serving up ridiculous pastries (some of the best I’ve had outside France) and perfect coffee. The staff is accommodating and gracious, and you really can’t go wrong with anything that fills the beautiful pastry case.

Shopping

Truly unique handmade items in Mayan style are available all over the city. But, mostly, you’ll find shops selling the lightweight embroidered shirts, blouses, and hats for the hot days.

If you have a bit of money to burn, and an eye for ultra-curated handmade decor, then you’ll want to visit the Merida shop of the Mexico chain, Taller Maya. If you don’t want to pay that kind of money, it’s also basically a museum dedicated to sustainable handmade Mexican goods.

Down the plaza, though, is another beautiful outpost of another Mexican retailer, Timesia. Here, you’ll find plenty of handmade hammocks (a mainstay in the Yucatan) and decorative items.

Outside Merida

Of course, Merida, the heart of the magical universe of the Yucatan, offers easy access to natural and Mayan adventures. For this trip, I chose a guided day-long tour that took me to the iconic Chichen Itza ruins (how could I miss this?) and also included a stop at a couple of Mexico’s “Magical Towns” - Izamal and Valladolid.

We also spent some time in an authentic Yucatán “cenote,” which, in simple terms, is a natural sinkhole filled with water that you can swim in. It’s an oversimplification, but you get the idea. These cenotes are breathtakingly beautiful, so don’t miss them. There are several around Mérida, but we visited Chicikán Cenote. While it’s not the largest or most famous, it was perfect for us. It satisfied our curiosity and provided a much-needed escape from the sweltering heat.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t make it, but if I were to return, I would plan to spend a day at the mother of all Cenotes, Cenotes Hacienda Mucuyché, which is said to be spectacular.

Wandering

All of it was magical. But my favorite activity in Merida, even amidst the heat? WANDERING. It’s a very safe city (considered to be the safest in Mexico), quite walkable, and pedestrian-friendly. Wander the zigzagging streets, taking in the colorful buildings, unique contrasts, and special people. So, wander. Discover where the streets of this unique place lead you. You can’t go far - it’s not a large city! But what you discover will stay with you. Just like the humidity. However, you can’t wash it off.

*Merida “Confidant Chairs” or, as I like to call them, “Lovers Benches.”*

Those special chairs? Well, they are the infamous “Confidant Chairs” of Merida. And if these alone can’t help you fall in love with this magical city, then I’m not sure anything can.

See my full Merida photo gallery

🏳️‍🌈 How is it for the gays?

Look, it’s still Mexico, with its deep Catholic roots and traditions. But also like most of Mexico, the people are incredibly respectful and I’ve rarely felt judged or in danger. Merida is a small town, but maintains the prevailing Mexican culture of “live and let live.” LGBTQ+ people here seem not only accepted, but celebrated. It’s a perfect spot for an LGBTQ+ couple to visit, share a “Confidant Chair",” and taste each other’s sorbet.

“It’s so hot.” “It’s the heat.” My visit to miraculous (and moist) Merida.