San Miguel Allende
City of Doorways
I wasn't entirely sure what to expect when I booked a 50th Birthday trip to San Miguel Allende. Sure, I've heard all my friends go on and on about it, but I felt, for certain, there was no way the hype could possibly be real. Surely it must be just another tourist town.
I knew that to be incorrect the first five minutes in this remarkable town.
But, let's step backwards a bit.
San Miguel Allende is not easily accessible. Nestled in a valley about 200 miles northeast of Mexico City, the nearest airports are either Leon or Guanajato, and both are a few hours away. And likely, rather expensive to fly into from the United States.
But, there's a better way. Several luxury tour bus lines operate regular schedules from Mexico City (and other large cities in Mexico) to SMA, and are incredibly affordable, and remarkably comfortable. For this trip, I chose the company ETN, and had amazing experiences (except for an unfortunate semi-truck accident on the way which delayed us by two hours - but not the bus line's fault!) with both directions. These busses are the real deal - reclining seats with footrests, clean restrooms on board, built-in entertainment, and occasionally-operable wifi. (The mysterious wifi actually didn't work on my trip - but I know it's there!)
Plenty of legroom on this ETN bus!
So, if you are coming from the US, fly into Mexico City, enjoy an evening near the bus station (Norte being the most popular), and hit the road in the morning. It's a wonderful experience.
When you enter town, you are greeted with the same familiar sites as any other Mexican town - streets lined with various conditions of shops, taco stands, paint stores - and of course, a Costco.
An aside: If you see a Costco in any Mexican town, you know it is going to be ex-pat friendly.
SMA is a shockingly small town for its reputation. The bus station is tiny - with an army of reputable and safe cabs waiting just outside. Uber is a non-starter - while there ARE Uber drivers in SMA, they are few in number, and you'll likely wait quite some time for a ride.
The small green cabs are they way to go, and I stay away from cabs as much as I can. I had no issues with these particular drivers, and they are accustomed to English-speaking passengers.
The magic begins once you enter city center. A short cab ride into the historic district unveils the pièce de résistance of SMA, the famous La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel.
This towering monument to 16th-century friar Juan de San Miguel is one of the most unique landmarks in all of Mexico, and quite different from the standard Cathedrals-in-the-square in other famous Mexican cities. In 1880, self-taught mestizo architect and stone quarry master Zeferino Gutiérrez is said to have designed the church’s facade based on postcards of European cathedrals. (Source)
Learn more about La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
If you've spent any time in other Mexican towns, one of the first thing you will notice is how sparkling clean SMA is - compared to ANY city I've ever ventured. A remarkably well-kept, and well-maintained town. Even Oaxaca can't compete with how SMA sparkles.
After a few hours, you will notice something else which is a bit of a shock - the massive amounts of wealth in this town. No, not everyone is rich here - but it's quite obvious that this town caters to not only wealthy visitors, but also wealthy Mexican nationals. A friend told me that SMA is where the Cartel sends their families to be safe. I can't confirm this, but it wouldn't surprise me. Do keep in mind, this is still Mexico, with extreme economic conditions as vastly different than their food. People still suffer from extreme poverty in San Miguel - it's just hidden really well from view. However, wealth oozes from every open door.
Speaking of open doors - you just cannot help but peak into each and every one. The narrow sidewalks (extremely narrow - many with only room for one person) and flat storefronts offer and endless supply of gawking moments while strolling through town. You'll find yourself literally taking a peak into each open building you pass, and marveling at what lies beyond the door - sometimes a palatial courtyard, a five-star hotel, a snazzy bar, or a ritzy restaurant. It's an adventure just wandering the streets, and if you can afford it, popping in to one of these upscale establishments.
And therein lies the magic. Behind the doors. From the outside, streets blend into streets, into alleys, into secret passageways - - but behind each door could be something marvelous.
Some of those doors led me to some truly delicious food ...
Bovine
I spent the evening of my 50th birthday at a newcomer - Bovine. When I first entered Bovine, I was a bit concerned. A wildly eccentric artist fella met us at the door and showed us upstairs where we were greeted by some of the most over-the-top decor and surroundings I've ever seen in an upscale restaurant. Also, a rather empty dining room. Both did not bode well for a memorable meal. But, I was wrong.
Dish after dish was amazingly and lovingly prepared, uniquely presented, and had out of this world taste. I opted for the smoked half chicken to share, and if you are a fan of smoke (as I am) you can't regret this dish. The carrots appetizer were also a surprise hit, as well as the grilled octopus. Every single dish I tired here was wonderful - service friendly - and the setting as unique as they come.
Even the menu captures you right out of the gate.
Other standout meals include ...
Inside Cafe
Grilled Cheese Sandwiches … in Mexico?
Another surprise was this charming little grilled cheese restaurant with a lovely patio - Inside Cafe. Don’t blink, or you’ll miss it, as it’s one of these secret places hidden behind - yes - a nondescript door.
But while there, enjoy fabulous cocktails, and don’t miss the pulled pork grilled cheese sandwich. Extremely simple to navigate for English speakers, and a unique menu when you aren’t feeling traditional Mexican fare.
El Correo
Traditional central Mexican dishes prepared with an obvious heaping helping of love and dedication.
This is what you’ll find at charming and intimate El Correo. My friends raved about the Tortilla Soup (which indeed was fantastic), but honestly, I found the Bean Soup one of the most delightful, creamy, and interesting soups I’ve ever had.
Lord help me. I want this again, NOW.
La Parada
My friend and fellow foodie Henry loves this little surprise, and for good reason. La Parada serves honest, delicious, and affordable Peruvian food in the heart of Mexico. Try the steak bowl (that’s the only name I know it as now!) and defiantly some authentic Peruvian cocktails. The fish on the appetizer menu is also a fantastic bet to share with your friends … or not. Screw them.
A View You’ll Never Shake
Finally, no trip to San Miguel Allende is complete without spending some time on one of the many rooftop bars/restaraunts which give you a breathtaking view of the city. And the most fabulous must be Luna Rooftop and Tapas Bar which is at the top of the five-star Rosewood Hotel. Sip amazing cocktails, and enjoy small plates, while being unable to take your eyes off the constantly changing city view before you. (Not to mention, the constantly changing SMA movers and shakers in and out of the establishment.)
Catch this experience at sunset - and you will never forget the experience.
Your first view …
… and just a few hours later.
While San Miguel Allende is beloved for its restaurants, which of course, I loved, I was more captured by the essence and charm of this little town.
On the morning of my 50th birthday, I woke up extra early to go on a shoot. The streets were basically empty - this sleepy little tourist town not quite ready for visitors - and I was able to enjoy an enchanting morning wandering the quiet alleyways and plazas of SMA. This is where I found the soul of the city. And, like clockwork, at 8am, the city streets suddenly and magically appeared with locals heading to work, visiting the church, walking their dogs (which were plentiful), or taking care of errands. No white expats - just normal folks going about their Friday morning. It was glorious.
And honestly, that's the lure of this "magic town." You can find nice restaurants, clubs, and shopping in nearly every city in the world, including this one. But, it's in the quiet moments where you find, especially in San Miguel, the bubbling beauty that runs beneath the tourist draws.
There is a beautiful, remote, and wandering spirit in this town that is quite hard to resist. No wonder many Americans are finding a new home here.
I pray, that with its growing popularity, that magic is not lost to popularization, and the mechanics of becoming an American destination.
This town is far too special to become another Cancun. But I have a feeling the locals would never allow this to happen, and San Miguel Allende will continue to be a beacon for those seeking the romantic side of Mexico.
A shout out to my friends who helped me celebrate my birthday in this unforgettable town.
